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Vacheron Constantin's SIHH 2017 Novelties

1/19/2017

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Patrimony Perpetual Calendar (Ref. No. 43175/000R-B343) 

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Vacheron's newest Perpetual Calendar is an elegant watch crafted out of pink gold. Paired with a slate-colored opaline dial, the slightly convex minute track is adorned with circular “pearl” minute markers and 18K pink gold applied hour markers. The hour and minute hands as well as the calendar pointers are crafted from 18K pink gold. Finally, the saddle-finish black alligator strap is hand-stitched. The watch is finished off with a pink-gold folding clasp. 
Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Case back
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar (Ref. No. 43175/000R-B343)

Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (Ref. No. 9720C/000G-B281)

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This is by far my favorite watch from Vacheron Constatin this SIHH. Though I'll never have one (seeing as it's about 900,000 euros (~$955,000 USD) and made to order. It has 23 complications, all of which are focused around the cosmos. From the standard moon phase indicator to the tide it's got everything. Not to mention, it's got a 504-hour power reserve (aka three weeks) thanks to six barrels. The complicated movement is protected by a 45mm white gold case. Now for all the things the watch displays:

Hours, minutes, perpetual calendar, day/night indication, precision moon phase, age of the moon, running equation of time, sunrise and sunset time, day and night length, seasons, solstices, equinoxes and zodiacal signs, tide level indicator, Sun-Earth-Moon conjunction, opposition and quadrature, transparent sky chart of the northern hemisphere with indication of the Milky Way, of the ecliptic and celestial equator, hours and minutes of sidereal time, tourbillon, 3 weeks of power reserve (6 barrels), power reserve indication. 
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When I get older I can sell my house, car, kids and live in a box, but at least I'll have my million-dollar watch to tell me the Sun-Earth-Moon configuration. In all seriousness, I think it's an incredible watch and I have serious respect for everyone involved in the 5-year development period and even more for the single watchmaker who assembled the 514-piece movement. It's just an incredible watch that I'd love to own, but never will. If anyone from VC is reading this please send an extra watch my way (I don't even need the display box). 
VC Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (Ref. No. 9720C/000G-B281)
VC Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (Ref. No. 9720C/000G-B281) Movement
Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 (Ref. No. 9720C/000G-B281)

Métiers d’Art Copernicus Celestial Spheres 2460 RT 

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I'm going to spend less time on this watch simply because I'm not as interested in it. The watch is undeniably interesting to look at, but it's definitely more focused around the artistic background than the watch itself. All three versions:
7600U/000G-B212 (Grand Feu enamel) 7600U/000G-B211 (Hand-engraving) 7600U/000G-B226 (Sapphire) ​
Are available only in boutiques. The earth in the center, as you may assume, rotates around the sun, while the hands on the outside of the dial indicate the time. The cut hand is for the hours while the solid hand indicates the minutes (so the watch below is displaying ~1:50). The earth in the center won't appear to be moving, however. While it rotates on its axis once every 24 hours, it only makes its way around the sun in the center of the dial once every 365.2421898 days (a tropical year). The mechanism for this complication is so precise that it only needs to be corrected once every 8,000 years. To allow the wearer to better admire the beautiful and complicated dials, the watch is delivered with a magnifying glass. 
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Traditionelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar

Vacheron Constantin TRADITIONNELLE CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Vacheron Constatin TRADITIONNELLE CHRONOGRAPH PERPETUAL CALENDAR Case back and movement
Admittedly, this watch was announced back in September, but I haven't covered it until now. Available in either platinum or pink gold, the watch is conservatively styled. It does not feature any of the bold colors or multiple design features other watches from this year had. It is simple, but I don't like it as much as the other watches released this year. It's just too simple and somewhat boring. The new in-house movement inside, the 1142 QP, has had it's frequency increased to 21,600 BPH. 

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Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860 (Ref. No. ​9200E/000G-B099)

Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Symphonia Grande Sonnerie 1860
The new unique piece from Vacheron Constantin (featuring a 727-part movement) is the first grande sonnerie wristwatch VC has ever made. Though the complication is exceedingly complex, the strike-mode selector (for the grande sonnerie and petite sonnerie) is operated via the bezel. The minute repeater is activated by a pusher that extends from the crown. Being a unique piece, it can be customized by the deep-pocketed collector who is sure to snatch this watch up. If 5 years of development to create the 3600 (above) seemed like a long time, this watch took 10 years. The assembly of the movement alone took 500 hours. On top of that, it was all done by one watchmaker. The movement includes all of the following: a grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie and minute repeater. The movement uses two barrels; one dedicated to the movement (72-hour power reserve) and the other to the striking mechanism (20 hours of strikework in its grande sonnerie mode, aka 96 chimes a day). To select whether you would like to hear the grande or petite sonnerie or minute repeater, the user rotates the marker on the bezel to align with the markings: "PS, GS and SIL", which are engraved on the side of the case. The dial indicates the time (with the small seconds at 7), the power reserve at 5, and the strikework power reserve at 2:30 (about). I'm very impressed with Vacheron's new offerings at SIHH 2017.
Vacheron Constantin Caliber 1860
The Caliber 1860 powers the watch

Caliber 1860 Specs:

- 1860 Developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin
- Bi-directional mechanical manual-winding
- 37 mm (16’’’) diameter
- 9.1 mm thick
- Movement power reserve: approximately 72 hours
- Strikework power reserve: approximately 20 hours
- 3 Hz (21,600 vibrations/hour)
- 2 barrels
- 727 components
​- 74 jewels
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    Jake Fogarty is the founder of It's All About Watches and writer for most of what you will read here. If you want to contact me you can visit ​the contact and advertising page.

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