Oris has been making affordable mechanical watches for a long time. However, many of them use movements such as the SW220 or the SW300. Despite the fact that they produced 229 in-house calibres between the years 1904 and 1981, it is the first mechanical movement developed from the
ground up by Oris for 35 years (movements are designed years before they come out). However, in the 110th year of the company and 33 years after their latest in-house calibre was introduced, they unveil the Calibre 110.
This new calibre has everything a person could want. It is a hand-wound movement but with an immense 10-day power reserve, that is not a negative at all. One interesting thing about this movement is that it has only one barrel. Given, it is a very large barrel but it does have to fit a mainspring that is 1.8m long. If you have been reading my blog I have talked about Oris and their next revolutionary watch for some time. Well, the wait is over. The Calibre 110 has two complications that have never before been combined in the same watch, a 10-day power reserve and a patented non-linear power reserve indicator. Oris' watchmakers will hand assembling and testing each calibre in Oris’ Hölstein factory.
Disregarding materials the watches are identical. Each is 43mm in diameter and has a water resistance of 30m. They each have a genuine crocodile leather strap (usually they use calf leather with a croco pattern) with what I assume is a deployant clasp.
The watch comes in two versions, a rose gold version and a steel version. Each is a limited edition of just 110 (see a similarity here?). However, Oris is not charging what it should for these watches. The steel version (Ref No. 01 110 7700 4081) retails for just 5,500 CHF (~$6,300 USD) and the red gold version (Ref No. 01 110 7700 6081) retails for 14,800 CHF (~$17,000 USD). These watches are now available for preorder and will be delivered in April 2014. A further explanation of the patented power reserve system can be found below. This is a huge step for Oris and a big step for mechanical watchmaking as well. I mean, 10 days in one barrel?!
Oris says non-linear power reserve which I think is slightly misleading. What they mean is that the power reserve indicator hand does not move at a constant speed. The hand moves more slowly the more the movement is wound but somewhere around the three day mark the hand starts moving more quickly. Oris says it gives the wearer a more accurate view of how much time they have left before they have to wind their watch.
Jake Fogarty is the founder of It's All About Watches and writer for most of what you will read here. If you want to contact me you can visit the contact and advertising page.
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